K-Beauty Ingredients Library

A more effective over-the-counter retinoid. This is classed as a third generation retinoid, widely studied and used to treat mild-moderate acne, keratosis pilaris and skin texture, pigmentation.

Examples include Glycolic, Lactic Acid, Mandelic

A water-soluble acid that works at the skin surface to gently resurface, great for reducing fine lines and sun damage. These acids work at the top layers of the skin to promote skin exfoliation.

Is awesome when you get your acne under absolute control. Do not mix this with other active skincare (acids, vitamin A) or you will get skin irritation. Ascorbic acid or vitamin C can help repair scars & most importantly reduce pigmented scars; namely post-inflammatory-hyperpigmentation (brown spots). This is one ingredient which you should get right in the context of good formulations. reduces wrinkles, protects collagen and increases production, aids wound healing, helps protect against sun damage, reduces hyperpigmentation, evens skin tone, brightens complexion, acts like armor against pollution and other free radicals.

Azelaic acid is effective against a number of skin conditions, including mild to moderate acne, melasma and rosacea due to its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Azelaic acid is one of the few treatment options that can be used in children and people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Formulations range from 10 to 20%. Good for reducing inflammation & pigmentation associated with acne. While azelaic can benefit those with mild to moderate acne, it shouldn’t be used as a first-line treatment for those with cystic acne. It isn’t going to penetrate deep enough to be beneficial.

Can be considered if you have mild to moderate acne, larger pimples & zits. Benzoyl Peroxide works by reducing acne causing bacteria on the skin. It can be drying, and may cause peeling when becoming acclimated to the product, be careful not to overuse or mix with other drying skincare products. Good as a wash if you are treating larger areas such as the back, chest.

Beta-glucan is derived from natural sources such as yeast, fungi, seaweed, or oats. It is commonly included in skin care products as a soothing agent and is considered an excellent ingredient for minimizing redness and other signs of sensitive skin.

Beta-glucan also offers antioxidant properties and has been shown to help visibly minimize signs of aging/sun damage (including reducing the look of wrinkle depth and rough, uneven tone). Certain sources of beta-glucan also offer film-forming moisturizing properties.

It is a powerhouse skin hydrator with 20% more hydrating ability compared to hyaluronic acid. This moisturizing ingredient has a history of being used in wound care to help promote collagen production and tissue regrowth.

Example - Salicylic Acid

An oil-soluble acid that is able to penetrate into the dermis, deeper layer of the skin. Great for treating clogged pores and uneven skin texture. These are considered more mild than AHA options which means they are typically well tolerated when used correctly.

A natural essential oil extracted from the flowers of the calendula plant (Calendula officinalis, AKA pot marigold). It is widely used in skincare products due to its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties.

Calendula essential oil is particularly beneficial for sensitive, irritated, or damaged skin and, unlike other oils, like coconut oil or olive oil, it’s non-comedogenic!

A plant derived oil that is excellent for hydrating the skin. Rich in essential fatty acids as well as vitamin E and K this oil is known for its ability to soothe the skin. Acting as a humectant this oil helps protect the skin from transepidermal water loss.

A skincare ingredient that goes by many names, this plant extract has been used in ayurvedic and traditional medicine for its healing properties for thousands of years, often referred to as The Miracle Elixir of Life, this ingredient comes with high praise. Known for its ability to keep damaged or burned skin hydrated, this product helps restore the skin barrier.

If you have conditions like eczema or rosacea, which can lead to dry sensitized skin, this ingredient will help to moisturize, soothe, and cool the skin. Less redness, inflammation and a more hydrated skin are on the way.

Derived from coconuts, this oil is rich in medium-chain fatty acids that help to protect and restore the skin’s barrier function. Having both antibacterial and antimicrobial properties this oil is great for those with dry skin, sensitive skin, or atopic dermatitis.

Coconut oil can be comedogenic (pore clogging) and should be avoided for those with oily, acne prone skin.

Coconut oil shines for its antioxidant properties helping to neutralize and prevent free radicals from UV rays and pollution.

Glycolic acid is a commonly used alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) in skincare. This exfoliating acid features the smallest molecular weight of all the alpha-hydroxy acids, which allows it to easily and effectively penetrate the skin. This product helps to prevent breakouts, minimize the appearance of pores, and improve skin texture.

Safe for all skin types, this skin boosting powerhouse is derived from the Houttuynia Cordata plant native to Southeast Asia.

Known for its anti-inflammatory properties it is ideal for use in red, irritated, sensitive, rosacea, or eczema prone skin. Having both antifungal and antibacterial properties this extract also promotes reduction in acne breakouts allowing the skin to regulate sebum production, all leading to healthier functioning skin.

Rich in antioxidants not only will this extract help improve skin health it also protects against the environmental damage we face everyday.

Safe to use on all skin types, this product is often used as a skin tint in sunscreens; not only does it prevent the dreaded mineral sunscreen whitecase.

It also plays an essential role in protecting the skin from visible light which can be damaging to the skin. When allowed to penetrate the skin our skin produces darker pigmentation often associated with dark age spots and flares in melasma (mask-like hyperpigmentation).

Safe for all skin types, jojoba oil is a liquid wax that has both humectant and emollient properties, meaning it can help hydrate as well as prevent water loss from this skin. The ingredient helps to balance sebum levels, allowing those with dry or irritated skin to improve barrier function.

A type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to promote the natural exfoliation process. This product gently helps resurface the skin, reducing fine lines. Promotes soft, smooth skin.

Similar to salicylic acid this formulation differs by having a large molecule size, allowing for the product to more gently impact the skin barrier. Provides the same positive impact of salicylic acid - reduction in acne, texture, blackheads, fine lines - without the skin irritation.

Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that works to exfoliate the top layers of skin cells. This product can benefit by improving the appearance of dull skin. Being larger in molecular weight than other AHA products, this acid is typically well tolerated by those with sensitive or acne prone skin. Consider this a gentle AHA exfoliate known to improve post acne pigmentation as well as inflammation.

Derived from a plant also referred to as Artemisia. It is a highly sought after ingredient due to its skin healing quality. When applied it acts as an anti-inflammatory helping to soothe irritated, red or compromised skin. The plant also has antioxidant properties meaning it helps protect from future irritation.

Also known as vitamin B3, can reduce redness, inflammation & aid in restoring barrier function. 5-10% recommended. Goes well with retinol and retinoids.

Olive oil acts as an antioxidant, and as a protectant. It contains the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K. These vitamins help the skin retain moisture and protect against transepidermal water loss.

.There is evidence to suggest that olive oil has antimicrobial properties that help to reduce the flare ups of skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

Panthenol is a precursor of pantothenic acid (or vitamin B5). Panthenol is a humectant meaning it holds and binds water. These properties make it ideal for keeping water in the skin.

It also works as an emollient, meaning it can moisturize and soothe the skin, as well as help protect it from environmental factors and skin stresses.

This product is excellent for those with sensitive skin, it is a gentle non irritating product that helps to protect the skin barrier.

Ideal for all skin types, propolis is sourced from the natural compound of organic materials collected by bees. Also referred to as bee resin, this skincare ingredient is favored for its multitude of benefits including skin-healing, skin-protecting, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory.

A natural antioxidant, dark spots, fine lines and photodamage will improve with use of propolis. The natural healing properties of propolis, along with its antioxidant effects, work together to help heal and prevent future breakouts, making it an ideal choice for people with acne-prone skin or oily skin looking for quick acne relief without any harsh chemicals or side effects.

A gentle chemical exfoliant that gently lifts off dead skin cells to improve skin texture. Long-term use improves dermal thickness and leads to reduction of fine lines. This chemical exfoliant is a gentle option safe to use on sensitive skin and for those with rosacea. While similar to the chemical structure of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) this product differs by causing less irritation and sun sensitivity with use.

A catch all term referring to vitamin A based products for the skin. Routinely used to improve uneven skin tone, pigmentation, and texture. Retinoids work by improving skin cell turnover and neutralizing free radicals.

Which retinoid is the right choice? Considering that these products may be irritating when first used, it is best to gradually introduce the product to allow the skin to build a tolerance, starting at a lower concentration and working your way up. For mild skin irregularities (texture, acne, pigmentation) consider an over-the-counter retinol.

Available in strengths ranging from 0.25-1%. When skin concerns are moderate to severe, opting for a prescription strength product may be more effective (tretinoin, tazarotene, and trifarotene) are topical formulations available by prescription for acne.

Not quite ready for prescription strength? Consider Adapalene: a more effective over-the-counter retinoid. This is classed as a third generation retinoid, widely studied and used to treat mild-moderate acne, keratosis pilaris and skin texture, pigmentation.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), well-known for reducing acne by exfoliating the skin to help keep pores clear. Salicylic acid works best for treating mild acne (blackheads and whiteheads). It can also help prevent future breakouts. Starting with a 2% wash is a great way to introduce the product, in higher concentrations 7% the product can be used as an exfoliant. Although salicylic acid is considered safe overall, it may cause skin irritation when first starting. It may also remove too much oil, resulting in dryness and potential irritation.

Extracted from the fancily-named Hippophae rhamnoides plant, this golden oil serves up some serious skincare benefits.

Naturally grown in the colder climes of Europe and Asia, this extra is packed with essential fatty acids (omega-3, omega-7, palmitoleic acid, and linoleic acid) and vitamins A, C, D, and E.

This extract helps to improve the skin barrier function, balancing sebum production while also nourishing the skin. You can expect less breakouts as well as irritation to the skin. Think quenching, defending, and hydrating.

From the secretion of snail mucus/infiltrate is an excellent hydrating skin care product. Used for millennia, snail serum has high levels of hyaluronic acid as well as growth factors that leave the skin feeling soft, hydrated, and luminous. Growth factors found in snail serum are proteins that act as an antioxidant (skin protectant).

With proper use snail serum will help improve fine lines and visible signs of photoaging.

Its value comes from its function as a humectant, meaning it helps skin’s upper layers both draw in and retain moisture, resulting in a more supple appearance. Because of these abilities it’s a staple ingredient in many moisturizers, where it provides hydration without being thick or occlusive.

Considered safe and non-irritating as used in skin care products, where concentrations typically range from 0.2–4%.

Rich in Vitamin E and oleic acid, Sunflower Oil is known to help support skin barrier function by improving hydration. Acting as a natural antioxidant this oil will help to protect the skin barrier from future damage.

Can be effective for some patients, however, most dermatologists will go for mainstream treatment. There is evidence that this essential oil can exert powerful anti-inflammatory effects. It is also bactericidal and fungicidal. Can be a source of skin irritation & allergies for some patients.

Oderless with potent antibacterial properties make ylang ylang essential oil perfect for treating and reducing blemishes, while its anti-inflammatory agents help to reduce redness caused by acne or irritation.

The purifying oil is also known to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, making it a popular choice for those looking to maintain their youthful glow!